Saturday, September 29, 2012

If I keep going south, climbing season doesn't end!

Smith Rock, OR

I currently have a larger issue limiting my climbing than weather: a pulled? or evulsed? A4 pulley.  Just google "climbing finger injury pop"  In fact, there is a whole Wikipedia page on "climbing injuries".  Mine is textbook: pulling hard on a crimper (a small hold you can only get your finger tips on) when you hear a "pop" sound and some pain ensues...I head three pops, two out of three fingers recovered in a couple hours, the third is still swollen after 6 days.



BUT, I had already planned to go to Smith Rock near Terrebonne, OR last weekend. So, I went anyways, three days post injury.  Smith Rock is one of the most scenic places I've climbed.  When you drive into the state park you are immediately confronted by towering limestone cliffs jutting out of a green river valley.  The rock is a mixture of golds, reds, blacks and browns.  There are cracks, huecos, chicken heads, knobs and crimpers.  Towering walls exhibit massive conchoidal fracture patterns hinting to historic rock fall events that would have shaken the ground.  Spires at the cliff tops extend upward like gigantic stalagmites, eroded by thousands of years of acidic rain.  In one formation a boulder perches atop a rock pedestal.


You can use a nut tool to slice cheese...this is how you clean it after you slice the cheese.

Christian, working a 5.12 (?)
I addition to the scenery I couldn't have asked for better company!  Four of us, Alex, Greta, Kristian and I, made the 6 hour drive from Seattle to Smith. 

I attempted to climb without using my ring-finger.  Every move was a bit T-rex style, grabbing holds with only three fingers.  Alex and I climbed a couple multi-pitch routes; Alex taking most of the leads so I could favor my hand.

Alex's victory


Greta on rock (5.11); Kristian on Belay




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